🇵🇪 A ten-day adventure in Peru, exploring Lima, Cusco, Machu Picchu, and Huaraz
☝️ First and foremost, the air quality in Peru is alarmingly poor. Drivers often roll down their windows to the max, making it suffocating, especially in high-altitude cities like Cusco and Huaraz. Breathing is already a challenge, and when a car passes by, you find yourself holding your breath for what feels like an eternity. The smog is thick, and the exhaust fumes are incredibly irritating.
🚌 Beyond the modern Miraflores district in Lima, the country retains an old, rural architectural charm, but this comes with its downsides. Stray dogs roam freely, garbage litters the streets, and tourists are often taken advantage of without a second thought. As soon as you step out of the Lima airport, a group of fake Uber drivers will bombard you with claims that Ubers can’t enter the airport, trying to lure you into their overpriced services. However, my Uber arrived smoothly and was half the price they quoted. In Huaraz, local taxis are the only way to get around. Peruvian drivers have a carefree, almost chaotic style, which can be nerve-wracking. It’s a true test of bravery on the narrow, winding roads. The government also seems to capitalize on tourist naivety; a dilapidated train to Machu Picchu costs more than a high-speed rail ticket. If you don’t want to walk, you have no choice but to pay the premium.
🦙 Alpaca wool brand stores offer items ranging from hundreds to thousands of dollars. Unless you’re an expert, it’s hard to tell if you’re buying genuine alpaca wool or just overpriced cashmere. If you’re a luxury shopper, feel free to indulge. In Cusco, taking photos with baby alpacas used to be a popular activity, but it was banned during our visit. I encountered an elderly woman in a back alley who seemed like a guerrilla, thrusting a baby alpaca into my arms. It looked more like a lamb, and I couldn’t tell the difference. She demanded 30 soles, and unless you’re particularly attached to the idea, it’s not worth the hassle.
🍽️ Some people on Xiaohongshu claim that Peruvian cuisine suits the Chinese palate, but I suspect they might prefer very salty food. Out of the ten Peruvian restaurants I tried, nine of them used salt as if it were free. In Lima, a newly opened Chinese restaurant called “Song” aims for Michelin standards, but the prices don’t match the taste. A meal for two cost $150, and it was underwhelming. The clams at Chifa Fujou and Lamar in Lima had a slight fishy odor. At Mayta, the crispy rice with shrimp was the only standout dish. In mountain restaurants, alpaca meat is a common offering, but it has a peculiar smell. The only truly enjoyable meal was at Green House in Aguas Calientes.
🏨 Overall, Peruvian hotels leave much to be desired. Showers often turn into foot baths, and toilets lack proper ventilation, making earplugs a necessity for a good night’s sleep. At the Hotel Ureta in Cusco, the WiFi was cut off the night before we left, and we had to pay extra for the electric heater.
🏔️ For tips on visiting Machu Picchu, check out my other two notes. While it’s still worth capturing in photos, the long journey may not be entirely worth it.
I’ve always wondered about the criteria for selecting the Seven Wonders of the World. In the 16th century, while China was flourishing under the Ming Dynasty, other parts of the world were still piling stones. The altitude in Huaraz was a real challenge; I felt it acutely when I hiked up to a local lake at 3,700 meters and found myself gasping for air. The thought of tackling the 69 Lake at 4,600 meters, a 14-kilometer trek, was too daunting. Cusco didn’t leave much of an impression, and Lima even less so. If you’re after rich cultural experiences and stunning sights, Mexico is a far better choice, as the mystique of the Inca civilization often falls short of expectations.
🗿 Among the Central and South American countries I’ve explored—Chile, Costa Rica, Panama, and Mexico—Peru has been the most disappointing in terms of food, clothing, accommodation, and transportation. Unless you have a deep fascination with Machu Picchu, there’s little reason to make the trip. If you do decide to visit, it’s best to head straight to the main attractions, take in the sights, and then move on.
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