I once dreamed of visiting the Amazon rainforest, perhaps Iquitos in Peru or somewhere in Ecuador. Little did I know that Bolivia also boasts a lush tropical rainforest, part of the same vast ecosystem as Puerto Maldonado in Peru—just 100 kilometers away. After chatting with some European backpackers, I learned that many travelers actually preferred Bolivia’s rainforest.
Not only is it more affordable, but it also offers better opportunities to spot wildlife. After all, the Bolivian currency is roughly half the value of the Peruvian sol. A bus ride from La Paz to the gateway city of the rainforest costs just 70 yuan, though the journey takes an arduous 12 hours. Even for someone accustomed to overnight buses, this felt like an eternity.
The bumpy roads didn’t help, forcing me to lie down and try to sleep.
We arrived in Rurrenabaque, the rainforest city, at 6 a.m., had breakfast, and dropped off our luggage at a travel agency. While waiting to set off, we wandered through the bustling weekend market. It was just after 9 a.m., yet the riverside market was already teeming with life. Some people were leisurely enjoying breakfast by the river, while others hurriedly shopped for essentials along the three-block stretch of stalls.
By noon, we reached the edge of the wetland national park. After lunch, we officially boarded our boat. Our guide, Yoyo, was brimming with energy. After a quick introduction, he immediately rallied us into action, moving supplies—including food and water for the next two days—onto the boat. Then came our luggage, followed by a thrilling three-hour cruise.
The journey was nothing short of magical. We spotted vibrant parrots and countless other bird species, not to mention over 100 crocodiles lounging on the shore or lurking stealthily in the water. Monkeys swung through the trees, capybaras grazed lazily, and the entire scene unfolded before us in its raw, untamed beauty.
This was a living, breathing ecosystem: fallen leaves nurturing moss, which fed shrimp, which nourished fish, which attracted birds (and capybaras), which in turn became prey for crocodiles, anacondas, and jaguars. We watched waterbirds poised to snatch fish, their every move mirrored by the eager anticipation of crocodiles lying in wait below.
As we neared the campsite, a kind of sensory fatigue set in. Crocodiles and waterbirds no longer seemed extraordinary; the camera shutters of several group members fell silent.
With the sun dipping low, we munched on popcorn and marveled at the fiery hues of the sunset. We played a game of wits with mischievous monkeys, who, unable to locate the popcorn, retaliated by knocking over a glass. Later, we gathered around a crackling bonfire, listening to Yoyo sing soulful tunes accompanied by improvised drumbeats.
The night concluded with a moonlit cruise. Through the beam of our cameras, we caught the glowing eyes of crocodiles scattered across the dark waters. And then, in one unforgettable moment, I glimpsed the fleeting shadow of a jaguar.
The second day was a whirlwind of adventures, beginning with the breathtaking morning sunrise, followed by an invigorating hike after breakfast, and culminating in an afternoon of fishing. Each activity offered a fresh and unforgettable experience. Our group consisted of eight people, perfectly suited for one boat.
However, the girl who had accompanied me took ill the following morning, likely suffering from dysentery or food poisoning. Unable to eat, she could only sip water, leaving her bedridden.
In the afternoon, we engaged in piranha fishing, an exciting yet challenging endeavor. Equipped with nothing more than a simple fishing line baited with raw meat, we dangled it into the water, where fish eagerly tugged at the hook. Yet, these clever creatures often managed to consume the bait without getting caught. After numerous attempts, triumph finally arrived as we successfully reeled in a piranha. With their razor-sharp teeth and striking red fins, these fish were undeniably unique.
As the day drew to a close, we were treated to a stunning sunset. Standing atop a high platform, we gazed out over the tranquil landscape, capturing the essence of “a wild ferry crossing with no one, the boat floats by itself.”
