Referring to the Cordoba Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption as a “mosque” evokes a profound sense of historical transformation, much like the Hagia Sophia. This transformation is not just about the names they bear but also the powerful emotions they evoke when you stand before them today.
Upon entering the cathedral, one is immediately captivated by the visual spectacle of the 12×12 continuous horseshoe arches, alternating in red and white. These arches create a forest-like atmosphere, where worshippers once knelt or sat, meditating and praying in the gentle flicker of candlelight.
The most sacred space within the cathedral, the mihrab facing Mecca, remains beautifully preserved. The entrance is adorned with a 1600-kilogram cube of gold mosaics, a lavish gift from the Byzantine emperor.
Adjacent to the mihrab are the private prayer spaces for Muslim kings and the medieval Mudéjar-style Villaviciosa Chapel. Christianity and Islam, two religions with shared roots, developed distinct religious expressions over the centuries, yet their sacred spaces and artistic styles were allowed to intertwine so closely due to geopolitical factors.
The disorienting sensation of stepping into the later, dazzlingly white, central Christian chapel, with its soaring dome and opulent Baroque decoration, is striking. The sudden shift in light and the abrupt break in the continuity of religious thought and artistic expression left me with an indescribable feeling of unease.
If I hadn’t known the historical significance, I might have been merely amazed by the dramatic change in visual experience, but instead, I felt only discomfort. Sitting in the center of the intricately carved choir stalls, I found myself reluctant to look up at the grand dome; at that moment, it seemed almost meaningless.
The superimposition of two sanctities somehow nullified the sacredness.
Before entering the Great Mosque, I had high expectations for this architectural marvel. After walking through it twice with a complex mix of emotions, I found myself yearning to step into the orange grove and let the warm sun soothe the dampness in my heart.
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