The Atacama Desert is renowned as the driest place on Earth, blessed with nearly year-round clear and sunny skies. Most travelers choose San Pedro de Atacama as their base to explore the surrounding wonders. This expansive region, however, is not well-served by public transportation. While daily half-day or full-day tours are available, the best way to explore is by self-driving.
Car rentals are quite affordable; if you’re flying in, it’s even cheaper to pick up a car in Calama. Although some roads are unpaved, driving slowly usually ensures a smooth journey.
On March 22nd, I opted for an easy half-day trip to Moon Valley (Valle de la Luna). The route is straightforward, with one road leading in and out, and then you drive to the designated sunset viewing point, Mirador Likan, on the other side of the park. Personally, I found Moon Valley to be somewhat average; there are similar landscapes in the American West, and while the sunset was nice, I preferred the spots I discovered later.
On March 23rd, I drove south along Highway 23 to explore various high-altitude lakes. The scenery along the way is breathtaking. First, you pass the Tropic of Capricorn marker. Tickets for Lagunas Miscanti y Miñiques and Salar de Talar must be purchased online. A crucial note: Before entering the scenic area, you must check in at the office in Socaire town (it’s very noticeable right by the highway) to exchange for a paper ticket, otherwise, you won’t be allowed in at the entrance.
The road from Highway 23 down to the lake is extremely challenging, and you definitely wouldn’t want to do it twice! After Salar de Talar, you can continue driving 10 kilometers to another free lake, Laguna Tuyajto. If you leave at 9 am, you’ll be done by 2 or 3 pm and can head back. I decided to go to Laguna Chaxa for the sunset, which was absolutely stunning and accompanied by the graceful presence of flamingos.
On March 24th, I headed north to the highlands, specifically Geyser El Tatio. Since geysers are most spectacular at sunrise, leaving at 5:15 am was perfect. By 9 am, there were hardly any tourists left. On the way back, I stopped at Río Putana, Laguna Flamingos, and Cañon de Guatín. The scenery this day was also incredibly beautiful.
On March 25th, in the morning, I went hiking at Devil’s Throat. In the afternoon, I visited the salt lake, Lagunas Escondidas de Baltinache, where you can float. The ticket is much cheaper than for Laguna Cejar. This lake is a bit far, and the road is relatively poor. I haven’t been to the Dead Sea, but this experience was fantastic. On the way back, I saw a cover-worthy sunset on a hill next to the cross outside the town.
On March 26th, I spent the morning hiking in Death Valley outside the town. The highlight was running down from a very high dune, which was a lot of fun. Then it was time to head back to Calama airport.
Unfortunately, I encountered a full moon, making stargazing impossible, which was a real pity.
